Just a few weeks ago, I was lucky enough to swap Toronto’s grey winter for the windswept links of Ireland—a journey long overdue. For years I’ve heard the tales of courses hidden in giant dunes, creamy pints of Guinness and of course the craic that fills every nook and cranny of the country. It was my first visit, and I arrived eager to find out why so many travelers return from this corner of the world already plotting their next adventure.
My week began with a journey north to Derry—or Londonderry, depending on who’s asking and who’s answering. Locals like to say it’s the only city where “the first six letters are silent”, and if that joke doesn’t tell you everything about the town’s charm and grit, I don’t know what will. I’d been eager to visit as Derry finds itself perfectly located as a gateway to some of the best golf courses in Ireland.
 | To the east, just an hour down the road, lies the quaint towns of Portrush and Portstewart. This is where you find Portstewart Golf Club’s towering dunes, Castlerock’s subtle charm, and of course, the Dunluce Links at Royal Portrush, which will once again take center stage as host of The Open later this year. The best part? They are all within a stone's throw of each other. Turn your compass North-West from Derry instead, and you’ll find yourself in Ballyliffin—home of the Old and Glashedy Links—as well as the wildly underrated Portsalon which hides on the Donegal coast, just to name a few. On either side of town, you are exposed to wildly different landscapes, golf course design and even a change in accents if you listen close enough. |
Each evening though, you return to town where fairways will give way to cobbled streets, and post-round analysis is done over pints in lively pubs with music in the air, and next morning's tee time being the only thing that might get you to leave.
We spent our first two nights at the Bishop’s Gate Hotel, a refined boutique hotel tucked into the charm of the “Cityside”—the historic heart of Derry. It’s the kind of place where the doorman knows your tee time and the bar will remember your whiskey.
For the second half of our stay, we crossed the River Foyle to the “Waterside” and checked into the newly minted Ebrington Hotel. Built on the bones of former British military barracks, the hotel stands as a testament to the city’s transformation. Ebrington Square itself, once a place of tension, is now dotted with cafés, restaurants, and, most notably, the Walled City Brewery—our top pick for an evening pint and bite to eat.
 | With our time in Donegal and Northern Ireland wrapping up, I traded the quiet beauty of the coast for the lively energy of Ireland’s capital, Dublin was calling. Waking in the stillness of North West Golf Club surrounded by sheep, and finding myself only a handful of hours later shoulder to shoulder on Grafton Street made for a contrast as sharp as it was refreshing. The streets are loud with Irish music pouring from open pub doors, and the sidewalks lined with food from around the world. Buses glide by with a purpose I didn’t expect in an Irish city, but Dublin is as much a city as any other I had visited. Between visits to the Guinness Storehouse and walks through the chaos of Temple Bar, Dublin offers plenty to keep you busy off the course. And you might assume that in Ireland’s most developed, urban setting, the golf would take a back seat. You’d be wrong. |
Just outside the city, to the north and east, sits what might be the finest collection of city-adjacent links courses anywhere in the world. Portmarnock Golf Club, The Island, Royal Dublin, and Jameson Links—each one a heavyweight in its own right. And if you’re willing to drive a bit further, you’ll hit County Louth in one direction and The European Club in the other. It’s almost hard to believe: one moment you’re in the heart of a capital city, and less than an hour later you’re walking across some of the most storied turf in the country.
I played Jameson Links during my stay, set along Portmarnock Beach, with views out to Ireland’s Eye. The idea that it might be the least preferred of the bunch was hard to wrap my head around. It’s pure links golf, and recent work on the course has opened up even more of the coastline to players. If this is the bottom of the list for some folks, then the list is absolutely stacked.
My trip to Ireland was a perfect blend of everything the country is known for—stunning golf courses, rich history, lively culture, and a welcoming atmosphere that made each day memorable. Whether counting sheep on the hillsides in Donegal, walking through the majestic dunes of Portstewart or sipping a pint in the heart of Dublin, every moment felt innately Irish. From the golf to the people, the landscapes to the pubs, it’s no wonder why so many return to Ireland after just a small taste. As I boarded my flight home I knew this wouldn’t be my last visit, Ireland has a way of getting under your skin.
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